P-47 was the heaviest single-seat fighter of WW2 and a popular modelling subject. There have been numerous decal sheets, but none of them offer as many options as this one.
Skymodels’ sheet for the mighty Jug offers 30 (!) different options from C to the N models, from all war theaters.
The various options comprise radio codes, nose art, serial numbers, victory markings, etc. In addition there are THREE types of national insignia, the full stenciling AND an instrument panel decal available.
The MiG-25 was a wonder aircraft in terms of technical solutions, aerodynamic scheme and application versatility for an airframe this big and this fast.
For an aircraft this influential and famous its very odd we have less than 10 kits available in all scales. Just 3 of them in the 72nd scale:
– the old Hasegawa kit (reissued and poorly copied countless times though that wouldn’t count),
– the Berkut family of single- and two-seater (the sole kit of the U training version AT ALL),
– the much more recent ICM kit.
The expected kit of 2013, which did not show up until mid-February 2014. Here it is in all its 300+ part glory.
What you will notice is not just the 2 options – there are two full suspension sets for either option:
– set on the ground under the full 100 ton load,
– and “jacked up – wheels hanging” pose, ready for launch. All parts modified, including wishbones and driveshafts drooping, steering rods also extended.
The two hydraulic portals that lift the whole TEL up also have different parts for the two modes, as do the support plates and the “fifth leg” behind the right cockpit.
Using OKB Grigorov’s resing parts has been very easy. In fact with the help of a hair drier I was able to bend the track run around the wheels and get some sag on the track. The track run retained its shape so well it could hold the wheels in place with no glue whatsoever!
After the track was painted I started weathering the wholes assembly, and added some “volumized” mud on the hull, which requires some pigment powders to look like the real deal (dry mud).
A small detail – Albion Alloys copper tube used for the exhaust pipes:
OK, after showing what’s in the box let’s see how to build this beast of a kit.
First, I glued together the hull halves and added the main fenders. They are way too thick for the scale and after being measured were chopped off.
Next step – fill the trenches where the former fenders join the upper hull, and sand the sides down until they are smooth.
Details will have to be restored…
Fabricate the new fenders from scrap metal – here 0,1mm brass sheet cut to size and bent. The bend is sort of uneven, which is fine considering this is a tank.
Early T-34s tend to be underrepresented in modelling, so it’s really nice that UM has taken care of them. I bough this kit in the beginning of the year because I only had mod. 1943 in my collection.
I’ll start with the PE and the decals (click on an image to see it full size). PE is really crude, especially the net over the engine. There are also the bolt-on armor for the MG and the ubiquitous tandem lumber saw.
Decals for two machines:
– red star + white 25 from 11th mechanized corps in July 1941;
The finished article. Paints and effects used:
– acrylic paints by Gunze, Tamiya, Vallejo for the camo job,
– MM Gun Metal for the armament and track base color,
– Tamiya X-11 for track bare metal effect,
– various dark metal shades for the chipping effects,
– thinned Revell browns used for the washes (darker on the hull, lighter on the tracks),
– Agama patinators and Koh-I-Noor pastel chalks for dust, smoke and heat staining on the exhaust heat shields,
– Alclad II Engine manifold on the exhausts for that extra oily exhaust look, feel and SMELL,
Today I received two of OKB’s latest releases – their Winterketten and Ostketten resin tracks for the Pz III/IV family of armored vehicles. I was impressed with the casting and level of detail, so I am in a hurry to show you what the fuss is all about.
First thing about the track sets is that they are provided in 4 bands per set, each about 102mm long, like so:
Considering you need about 175mm per vehicle side for the lenghtened III/IV chassis on which a Hummel or Nashorn was based – you’re pretty well catered for in terms of spares.
First thing to do is to get rid of the molded-on tools. Considering the absurd ideas to make the hammer our of 3 layers of PE and the jack out of 9 layers – some tools were replaced with items from the Attack’s set “Implements and tools”, and I kept the jack almost stock. For the time being I glued on the retaining PE clasps and straps for them and the tow cables.
Aside from the molded-on tools and the symmetric turret there are few other issues with the Revell kit:
– directly sticking the spare tracks to the turret walls – there are brackets for this on the actual machine – I used PE items form the Part set.
– the gun that is very crudely molded in one piece together with the muzzle brake – replaced it with RB Models item 72B26 turned aluminum barrel with bronze muzzle brake. Since the barrel is turned there are visible traces from the lathe on its surface – I sanded down with 800 and 2000-grit sandpaper.
Years ago the Poles from Part have released 3 PE sets to improve the molded-on details of both Revell’s Braille scale Tigers. The three packs basically have the same main fret and mesh set, plus a third metal sheet that holds details specific to the version – P72-092 for the Ausf. H, P72-093 for the E, and P72-094 for the H1.
I got myself a set for the late variety, and here it is.
As you can notice there’s heaps of tiny detail, some so small really you will not even bother remove it from the metal sheet. There’s useful stuff like all the tool retaining straps and clasps, the side mud flaps, the exhaust heat shields, the ammo belt and can for the commander’s MG, as well as the mesh screens that are SO missing from the Revell kits.